Murphy bed part 4 (horizontal version)

This photo shows the single bed version. The "axle" part runs horizontally and in this verion instead of enclosing the whole thing in a frame the bed itself is open and the bolt mechanism goes through the headboard.

The headboard is attached to the wall (screwed to the shelves which are screwed to the wall.

At the bottom end a small end table fulfils the same function.

murphy bed part 3, the mechanism

OK. So this 6" coach bolt is the mechanism that the whole fold up bed project hinges on.

You need to drill a clearance hole that the bolt can just freely rotate in into the bed frame. On my bed that hole is 41cms up from the floor, and 41 cms out from the wall. Since the center of the 2x2 "axle" on the bed base itself is centered on 35cms from the outside edge of the base. this leaves me about 3cm of clearance from the inside edges of my frame at both the wall and floor edges, so the whole thing swings freely in the space.

To fasten into the "axle", start by drilling a clearance hole part of the way in. You want the screw thread on the bolt to start biting into the wood for the last couple of inches, so change down to a drill bit that's just a bit too tight to slide into without screwing for that last inch or so. Obviously you need to do the same procedure on the other side before trying to assemble it.

Balance the bed base on magazines to lift the bed base drill holes level with the ones in the outer frame. Use a washer either side of the outer frame (can be a bit tricky getting the inside one onto the bolt) and use a spanner or socket to tighten them into place. It might take a little bit of playing around to get the tension/centering between the two sides even. Remember to pull the mags out before you try to rotate it. :)

I'll do a couple of photos of the single bed version in a later post.

fold-up bed part 2

The ply wood box that the bed frame fits inside is made from 3/4'' ply.

Cut two sides pieces 42 cm x 202cm


one lid 44cm x 152cm (the lid is deeper than the sides or base so it covers the
the back braces as well)
one base 42cm x 148.6cm

The lid sits on top of the two sides, the base fits inside the two sides, thats why they are different lengths.

Two back braces 152 cms long x however wide you like (mine are 26cm on the bottom and 16 cms on top) They screw to the back of the box to hold it square and attach it to the wall.

I also cut two pieces 42cms x 50cms to fit inside the bottom part of my box screwed to ouside pieces to reinforce the part that holds the mechanism and bring it flush with the bed base itself.

You could equally well fit 2'' x 1'' to do this job. I probably would if I was starting from scratch.



The top of the bottom back brace fits level with the top of this reinforcing piece (52cms from the floor). when the bed is down this is level with the top of the bed-frame.



Drill and countersink clearance holes in the back braces. If you are attaching the bed to a solid wall it doesn't really matter where these holes are, just drill and rawl plug to the wall.



If you are attaching to a stud wall, you'll need to find the studs and drill the holes to attach to these.



Here is a picture that shows the top back brace of my plywood box attached to the wall.

The baton attached to the roof of the bed stops it tilting beyond vertical. The dowelling bar attached below that is for hanging up your duvet when you put the bed away. The picture also shows the windows I cut in the sides. They let a bit of light in. I used to have shelves outside the bed that you could get at through the windows. these are optional extras.

The next stage is fitting the bed base inside the frame. and drilling the hole for the hinge bolt, but I think I'll save that for another post, because writing this is turning out to be harder than making the bed in the first place was.

how to make a fold up bed (Murphy Bed)

I've seen a few requests for instructions on how to make a bed that folds up into the wall on various web sites ( hi sillygirl, I wrote this for you! hope you can follow my instructions)


I've made two versions for my house, one double bed size, one single. These instructions are for the double bed size. The footprint of the bed in its upright position is 45cm x 151.5cm. Its 204cm high, so its wall print is 204cm x 151.5cm. When the bed is down the mattress height is 60cm (about mid thigh height on me). I can raise and lower it on my own fairly easily and I'm a 5'2", fortyfive year old woman.



Here it is in its down position and put away position (it usually has a plain cotton cover over the base so it blends into the background)

Here are the bed legs - two denim covered plywood cubes with removable tops. Mine are on wheels. The bed legs act as storage and as seats when not being bed legs. The coach bolt on top is the folding mechanism.



So, you need to make a bed base to fit your mattress, a ply wood box that the bed base fits inside, and two plywood cube bed legs. Instructions on how I made mine below.

Tools needed: jig saw, drill, screw driver. 5ml drill bit for clearance holes, 4ml drill bit for pilot holes, countersink bit. 13ml spade bit for the clearance hole for the hinge bolt. 10ml and 9ml for the pilot hole for the hinge bolt.


For the bed base:


(1''x6'') pine boards 3 @ 190.5cm and 2 @ 144cm (measure your mattress for a snug fit)

(1''x2'') pine batons 4 @ 190.5cm and 2 @ 135.7cm



for the struts:



(1''x 2'') 9 @ 135.7cm

(2''x 2'') 3 @ 135.7cm


take two of the long pieces of (1''x6'') and the two short pieces of (1''x6'') and make a rectangular box, with the long pieces inside the short pieces. The total width of the box will be 144cm. The total length will be 190.5 plus twice the width of the (1''x6'').
(The width of the (1''x6'') will be less than 1'' because the measurement when you buy lumber refers to the ''off saw'' size and its then planed smooth, so smaller)


Mark where the screw holes will go on the short sides of the bed. Drill a clearance hole for your screw in the short side and countersink it. Mark through this hole to find the place to drill the pilot hole in the grain end of the long side. don't screw it together yet.





















The final long piece of (1''x6'') lays flat in the center of your box, flush with the bottom of your frame, so mark and drill the screw holes for that too.

Mark the depth of your 1'' planed timber up from the bottom of the box and screw a (1''x2'') baton all the way round. On the long sides the battons come all the way to the end of your (1''x 6'') on the short sides they don't. The final two long pieces of (1'' x 2'') are screwed to this baton so they are flush with the bottom of the box.

Here's a couple of photos of the bed frame that might help make sense of all this. A corner joint seen from above and below. The batons are screwed on from the inside so no screw holes show on the outside of the frame.











The frame without its thin ply mattress support,but with the struts in place. The struts are screwed into place on the two bottom 1''x2'' s but just rest on the central 1''x6''. One of the pieces of 2''x 2'' must be level with the bolt that forms the hinge mechanism. On my bed the center of that 2''x2'' is 35cms from the outside edge of the head end of your bed frame. When the bed is in its upright positon that will be the floor end. When you screw this one in place the screw must be at the edge of the 2''x2'' so that the centre is clear for the bolt to screw into.


I think this is enough for one post so I'll start a new post for the outer box and hinge mechanism next.